Koji's Back!

If you've been reading a while, you've heard me mention Koji a couple of times. That with an apartment practically on top of his sushi bar, John was one of Koji's first and most regular customers while he was living in San Mateo. That prior to Koji my sushi experience was limited to wedding buffets lined with limp tempura and soggy California rolls, and that I credit him for teaching me how very transcendent *good* sushi can be. That since he closed up shop in San Mateo, we've followed him faithfully around the bay. That whenever we venture in to a new sushi bar, Koji is THE standard by which we measure the freshness of the ingredients, the skill of the chef and the success of the experience.

A little over a year ago Koji left his stint at Hiro's in Brentwood bound for Japan for a bit. We exchanged email addresses and made him promise he'd let us know when he was back slicing sashimi in the bay area. A couple of months ago he let us know he was back and looking for a location to open a sushi bar in the east bay. Huh-zah!

My smart-assed comment that my kitchen counter was available turned out somewhat prophetic. After four years of restless anticipation, last weekend we perched like Norm and Cliff at Koji's sushi bar in eager anticipation of the feast before us. No longer an interpretation of someone else's vision, we once again experienced *Koji's* tamago. His gomae. His miso soup. His saba nigiri. His spicy tuna. And his signature hot dog roll. It was a transporting experience for both of us. For John it was coming home. Oh... the prophetic piece? Koji's new digs are one easy exit up the freeway.

Welcome back Koji; We've missed you.

Koji's | 480 San Ramon Valley Blvd, #E, Danville, CA 94526

Technorati Tags: Food | Sushi | Restaurant

TerraMar: Deja Vu all over again?

It's taken us several years to re-cross this particular threshold. For good reason.

Ono Maze was a discovery we made during one of our favorite pastimes. Like many women window shop, John and I menu browse. We pick a neighborhood and stroll the streets studying the menus of its restaurants searching for inspiration.

This was a warm, late summer Friday evening. Sometime in August of 2001. Meandering North Main Street in Walnut Creek we were beginning to see a pattern. Italian... Italian... Italian... Brew Pub... Italian... French Italian... Italian... Wait... What's this? Pan Asian? Hmmm... Lots of seafood. A fair number of shareable appetizer options. With Japanese, Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese influences. No sign of Italian. We looked at each other... "Let's eat here".

Neither of us could know it at the time, but that evening would ultimately be a tipping point for both of us from a culinary perspective. We walked across the patio and through the door... and Ono Maze drew us in like a magnet. Over the course of four years, we commemorated birthdays, anniversaries, holidays and frantic Fridays. We made friends. First Kelly and then Kevin encouraged us to explore and develop our palates. Their influence has an ongoing impact on how we approach food today, from the way we shop and prepare food at home to the restaurant choices we make and how we evaluate each experience. In many ways although we were well into our thirties when we discovered them, we grew up with Ono Maze. From a food perspective 1616 N. Main Street holds the same mystique as a treasured childhood home.

So when the senior management closed the doors in November 2004 to explore other opportunities we've followed our friends to their new ventures and venues, but we haven't explored the restaurants that occupied the old homestead. Until recently.

I first discovered TerraMar through American Airlines' dining rewards program.

"Terra Mar features casual upscale dining, offering small plates for sharing and a fully stocked bar. They use only the freshest locally grown and harvested California ingredients and strive to provide some uniquely delicious dishes. One of Terra Mar's features is their amazing Oyster and Raw Bar..."

Intrigued, I clicked the link to the menu and started exploring. It was only after I decided this was a must-try that I looked at the address. 1616 North Main. I checked with John and he was agreeable, so off we headed one Friday night. Heck, even if it sucks we'll get some airline miles out of the deal...

Our homecoming experience was a little odd. Three tenants occupied the building between Ono Maze and TerraMar, but very little has changed. The patio and the entrance are identical. So is the bar. The decor. Even the *furniture* is the same. And it was more than a little ironic in an almost squicky kind of way that the hostess -- with no connection whatsoever to us or our long-ago connection with the location -- sat us at *our* table. Where we celebrated the aforementioned milestones. Where we closed the place in November of 2004...

TerraMar, you've got some big shoes to fill...

We decided to make one selection from each section of the TerraMar menu: a raw starter, a garden, a sea and a farm. Because the menu follows a "three ways" theme we selected what would prove to be quite a variety. We started with a "raw trio" that included a tuna tartare John loved, a scallop cerviche I loved, and a beef capaccio we both quite enjoyed. We followed our first course with the house frittes, (served with a cumin-chipotle ketchup we both found intriguing) sliders three ways (barbecued pork, kobe beef, and meatball in marinara), and the duck three ways (confit, duck breast, and foie gras).

I certainly didn't think our experience was this bad. Nor was it without flaw.

The good: The service was friendly and attentive without hovering.

The presentation on *every* dish was stunning. Someone has spent a lot of time, effort and energy picking out the perfect accessories for showcasing the chef's talent. There are no pictures in this particular spotlight because my crappy cell phone camera wouldn't do the presentations justice. Next time I'll take a real camera, I promise!

The menu is very creative, and for the most part well-executed. On a return visit, we wouldn't hesitate to reorder many of the same dishes. The raw trio was excellent. Their ketchup's a far cry from the Heinz or Del Monte of my youth. I'm not a duck lover (well not a *cooked* duck lover... I did spend my college years in Eugene) but I ate my share of the confit and the duck breast.

The not-so-good: For as pretty as the presentations were, most of the dishes were *very* difficult to eat without making a mess. Which is awkward in a white tablecloth, fine dining establishment, even if you're us. (Probably more so if you're the newly dating couple seated next to us, still trying your damndest to impress one another). My inner Len Goodman: "If you want a ten, make the pretty plate easier to eat."

For small plates, the portion's a bit large. John and I are NOT small people. It takes more than a plate of lettuce and a couple of ounces of protein to sustain us. So we were more than a bit surprised when after splitting four "small plates" we weren't sure we'd saved room for dessert. Perhaps our focus on the trios did us a disservice in that regard, but especially with the sliders, if there are three 'burgers' on a plate, they don't need to be fast food sized.

The foie gras. I don't touch the stuff (because the texture and the taste of liver squicks me, not for political or religious reasons). But John loves it. And his assessment is it came to the table unpleasantly cold. More the texture of lard than butter.

Would we go back? Absolutely. There's a lot of the menu that intrigued us that we'd like to explore. And TerraMar's only been open for a couple of months and still finding its footing. If you ever find yourself hungry in Walnut Creek without reservations at Va di Vi, I'd highly recommend you check out TerraMar. Start small and ask for an extra napkin... you'll enjoy the experience.

TerraMar | 1616 North Main Street, Walnut Creek | 925.472.0400

Others who've enjoyed TerraMar...
Julie and Loyd of Artisan Adventures called it "Christmas morning in my mouth"

From the archives...
In 2007 I twisted my pretzels into hangman's nooses.

Technorati Tags: Food | Restaurants | SF Bay Area | Small Plates

Dining out in Dayton - Jay's Seafood

On our last drizzly evening in Dayton we took the advice of colleagues and friends and ventured back into the historical Oregon District. Our destination: Jay's Seafood Restaurant. Our biggest challenge turned out to be finding the restaurant; despite state-of-the art navigation toys, one-way streets and oddly shaped blocks conspired to confound us. But we persisted, and soon found ourselves seated in an elegantly appointed dining room dominated by a 32-food mirrored mahogany bar... a scene I found reminiscent of the 1940's films my father adored.

K was a little concerned when our waiter pondered her inquiry about "gluten free" as if she was speaking a foreign language, and we both breathed a sigh of relief when it became clear that the chef understood her dietary restrictions... and that our waiter was pleased to have learned something new. She chose the seared tuna, and I selected the local "Lake Erie" Walleye in a pecan butter sauce. THIS is my memory of solid, Midwestern food: simple, gut-sticking preparations that seek to satisfy, not impress. A great way to end a long week.

Jay's Seafood Restaurant | 225 E. Sixth Street, Dayton, OH | 937.222.2892

Technorati Tags: Food | Restaurant | Seafood

Dining Around Dayton: Brio

If it's Wednesday, it's team dinner night.

"Team Dinner Night" struck fear in the hearts of most of my colleagues, given our experience with the lunch offerings so far...

So when the powers that be announced Brio Italian Grille would be our destination for the evening, we all breathed a collective sigh of relief. Yes it's a chain. But given the number of Arby's I've seen in the last two days, they could have chosen *far* worse in the chain department. I glanced at the online menu and knew I could make some relatively healthy choices. And my gluten-free colleague could eat, period.

I chose the Wood-Grilled Salmon Salad with a glass of Sketchbook Cabernet Sauvignon, and while Pacchia certainly remains the best meal I've had in Dayton, I didn't walk away disappointed or hungry.

One more day...

Brio Tuscan Grille | 4459 Cedar Park Drive, Beaver Creek, OH | 937.429.7792

They Dayton Daily News reviews Brio.

Technorati Tags: Food | Restaurants | Italian

Dining Around Dayton: Pacchia

Turns out the pizza might have been the *best* lunch we're going to see in Dayton. It's gone steadily downhill from there. Tuesday I had my first experience with mystery meat; I truly have *no* idea what kind of protein was suspended in the gelatinous brown sauce. I skipped it, but a more adventurous colleague described it as a peculiar experience. Not one he wished to repeat. I had a pile of iceberg lettuce (sans nuclear lime green gloppy dressing), two bananas and a handful of mixed nuts. And spent the afternoon dreaming about dinner.

I'd found our dinner venue on Open Table and based on 20 minutes on the Internets, I was fairly confident we'd eat well. The executive chef's a native of Dayton, and an honors graduate of the CIA with an impressive resume. A seasonal menu of New American cuisine, Mediterranean-style had my attention. So after six hours studying statistics, four of us piled into a rental car and headed for Pacchia in the Oregon District of downtown Dayton.

Parading through the espresso and panini bar on the way to the main restaurant was a bit odd, but I can see how the former would appeal to the college and the early after work crowd. The look and feel of the restaurant is very contemporary, very hip. It would fit just fine in many bay area neighborhoods (though the rent would probably be prohibitive... the space is *huge*.)

My dining companions chose the salmon and the stuffed fillet of beef. I'd spent the previous evening salivating over a fish I'd never heard of as Mario Batali bested Jamie Oliver on Iron Chef America... and here was the mystery fish, on the menu in Dayton. I'll have the Grilled Fillet of Cobia (with roasted fingerling potatoes, petite carrots, and mango Maltese orange and mint salsa). With the "Fifth Street" salad. And a glass of Sketchbook Pinot Noir. Please.

Memories of mystery meat fade into the distance...

The salad proved that you *can* get something other than iceberg in the Midwest and that a sweet tart dressing in the supporting cast rather than grappling for the lead is a wondrous thing. And the cobia. An intriguing combination of firm and buttery with a rich tender flavor, cobia will be my entree of choice any time I see it on a menu. And unless something I eat in the next two days is earth-shattering, Pacchia will go down as the culinary hit of this trip (and possibly the Denver > Dayton > Denver circuit).

Worth the drive, even in the rain.

Pacchia Restaurant | 410 East 5th Street, Dayton, OH | 937.341.5050

Other opinions on Pacchia:
A 20-something sales rep and student had a less-than-stellar experience.
Sue of Rabbit Run Cottage gives me a list of must-try experiences in Dayton, including both Pacchia and another restaurant on our radar later this week.

From the archives: A year ago today, I played with puff pastry.

Technorati Tags: Food | Restaurants | Food

Dining around Dayton: Harrison's

As predicted, our first catered lunch was an early indication that we were going to have to work to find decent food in the Dayton suburb of Huber Heights. Lunch was also confirmation that my gut instincts to avoid pizza Sunday night... I've never encountered margarine as a pizza topping but it seems to be a staple around here. One of the locals swore he knew where we could do better. So my crowd piled into the car , passing a "restaurant row" littered with Applebees and Olive Garden and headed for Tipp City, OH in search of Harrison's.

According to our host, a native, Tipp City was founded as Tippecanoe City in the 1800's along the Erie Canal, with early commerce built upon the canal trade. And that Harrison's is named at least partially after the town's presidential connection. It's lost none of it's small town midwestern feel, and its streets left your heroine a bit homesick for the summers she spent in the central Illinois mining towns of her ancestors.

The menu centered around smoked meats and beef, though the bourbon-glazed salmon was a brief and strong temptation. I also considered the restaurant's "signature" burger: a half pound of angus ground beef wrapped around a blue cheese and onion mixture, then *deep fried* and served smothered in spicy buffalo sauce. But in the end I opted for a beautifully rare fillet with typical midwest sides: cole slaw, mashed potatoes and sauteed onions.

Definitely worth the drive.

Harrison's | 106 E Main Street, Tipp City OH | 937.667.5200

The Dayton Daily News review.

Technorati Tags: Food | Restaurants | Steak

Blame it on the rain...

D and T introduced us to Cesar in Berkeley over a year ago, where we fell in instant love with the spicy pimientos di padron and the sweet tart roasted grapes of the late fall.

So when they suggested a late night nosh at the Oakland location during a break in Friday's series of storms, we eagerly climbed into the back seat to traverse the tunnel.

The storms had taken their toll on the restaurant, which was operating with less than half of its normal Friday night staff and offering half of the normal menu. D took charge of the ordering, and in no time at all we had a sizable feast before us. Several selections stood out as the hits of the evening: The tortilla verde, one of the most beautifully balanced "frittatas" I have ever encountered. Boquerones with avocado on grilled bread brought a delicate, delightful dichotomy between smooth creamy sweet avocado, brisk sharp boquerones and crispy bread. The spicy tuna and egg bocadillo was the surprise of the evening for me: who knew a tuna melt could be that good?!? And the tocino de pato... I'm not a duck fan, but John insisted I try it. Oh. my. gawd. Duck bacon. And while the bar menu's received much-deserved acclaim, I was looking for something with less punch and absolutely adored the house-made lemon-mint soda. Again a perfect balance.

We did less well with the desserts. T ordered the special of the evening, a chocolate cake with a broken creme fraiche. And the saffron orange ice cream that accompanied an orange pound cake clearly suffered beyond the point of no return from the afternoon's power outages.

All in all, a great way to kick off a weekend.

Cesar Piedmont | 4039 Piedmont Avenue, Oakland | 510.883.0222
Cesar Shattuck | 1515 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley | 510.883.0222

Other bay area bloggers who share our obsession enthusiasm over Maggie Pond's amazing food and drink:
Fatemeh at Gastronomie feels as strongly as we do about the tocino de pato and makes several other excellent suggestions.
Gourmet Bee offers a make-at-home version of the intriguing spicy tuna and egg bocadillo.
Lia of Swirling Notions has a thing for the pimientos di padron.
Martha's sketches over at Trumpetville Travels capture the essence of both the Piedmont Avenue and Berkeley locations.
"Single Guy" Ben had a better experience with the saffron ice cream than we did, and offers Cesar a 3.5 rating on his unique scale.

Photo credit: Bar Cesar

Technorati Tags: Food | Restaurant | Oakland

Disappointment: Duartes

Guy Fieri recommended it.

Diners/Drive-ins/Dives Episode DV0204 focused on local flavors, and one of Guy's stops was Duarte's, a century old tavern turned restaurant on the Northern California coast with a focus on fresh, local flavors. The segment highlighted the restaurant's artichoke soup, calamari, abalone, and crab cioppino. We were intrigued.

Thanksgiving weekend found us with a bit of free time, so we decided to make the drive over to the coast. Along with hundreds of other Northern Californians in search of the area's best Christmas trees. We stopped at La Nebbia Winery in Half Moon Bay to stretch our legs and regain some sanity -- and discovered a lovely orange muscat in the process.

We pulled into Pescadaro a bit after 2 and learned we'd have an hour to kill before we could get a table. We wandered through a half dozen antique shops and a really fun old-world grocery store building up an appetite.

After all that, Duarte's was more than a bit of a disappointment. The early November oil spill in the bay meant that the crab in the cioppino was coming from Washington, so we weren't as willing to endure another 45 minute wait for that specialty. The artichoke soup was good enough, but we were actually far more impressed with the cream of green chile variety. And if this was Guy's idea of top-notch diner calamari, we've got to get the man educated. Eight wedges of greasy, over-breaded rubbery squid with a side of ketchup wasn't worth the $10 we paid. Since the cioppino was out, we opted to split the special sandwich of the day, an abalone club. A thin strip of abalone breaded and fried (far more carefully than the calamari) slapped between two slices of lightly toasted bread and a pile of Sysco fries. For $20.00. In retrospect I wish I'd chosen the crab, even if it did hail from out of state. In the end, the best thing to grace our table was the fresh-baked sourdough bread.

We closed the afternoon with a visit to Santa Cruz's eclectic Bonny Doon Winery where again we were drawn to the dessert wines.

We'll be enjoying the wines long after the Christmas tree's gone...

Duarte's Tavern | 202 Stage Road, Pescadero, CA | 650.879.0464
7:00 A.M. to 9:00 P.M. Daily (Closed New Years Day, Easter, Thanksgiving and Christmas)

A year ago today, I had some fun with word association.

Technorati Tags: Restaurants

Dining Around Salt Lake City

Between stints at the Family History Library, where we spent large chunks of our holiday week surrounded by films and fiche of 19th century New England and 18th century Italy, we had some interesting dining experiences during our stay in Salt Lake City.

John had enjoyed Happy Sumo Sushi in the Gateway Shopping Center during a previous visit, so we made sure to add it to our lineup. The short story: I thought it was a bit over-trendy, but quite tasty. The fish was uber-fresh, the rolls were creative and well-executed, and the Dragon Scales - spicy tuna tucked between two shiso leaves and lightly tempura battered and fried - was the runaway hit of the meal for me.

When we're out of town, we like to try new restaurants, steering clear of the chains we see at home. Lunch at Z'Tejas was the closest we came to the chain restaurant experience; they have nine other locations around the western United States. The menu showed potential. Unfortunately, it failed to deliver. I'm allergic to many legumes, most acutely black beans. Which appeared anonymously in both of the lunch entrees I ordered.

Looking for picnic fare for the fourth, we stopped by Caputo's Market & Deli... and walked out forty minutes later with an eclectic collection of salumi and cheese. Prosciutto. Mortadella. A yummy aged goat. A creamy herb-crusted blue cheese with hints of nutmeg and clove. And in deference to my immigrant grandfather, the imported chocolate hazelnut biscotti he doled out as treats in my childhood. Who knew I'd find a sense memory in Salt Lake City?

The in-room restaurant guide suggested that we'd find "traditional, authentic sushi" in a "fun and funky atmosphere" at Ginza Japanese Cuisine and Sushi Bar. Well they were partially right. The atmosphere *was* fun and funky, our sushi chef Brendan was friendly and attentive, and the dishes he put before us were creative and tasty, but the 'Jezebel' (tuna, cilantro, tempura-fried jalepeno, avocado, lime and cream cheese) doesn't strike a 'traditional authentic' tone. If you can accept a bit of creative license in your sushi experience, Ginza's worth a stop though.

Our favorite appetizer at The Garden at Temple Square was the chef's special Fried Dill Pickles -- carefully coated in a delightful dill-seasoned batter, deep fried and served ala pommes frites with a trio of dipping sauces. Dill on dill. But it worked. What I loved about The Garden was the simplicity; from the friendly, unpretentious service to the simply seasoned but soul-satisfying entrees, the Mormon community has hospitality figured out.

Happy Sumo Sushi | 153 South Rio Grande (at the Gateway), Salt Lake City, UT | 801.456.7866
Z'Tejas | 191 S. Rio Grande (at the Gateway), Salt Lake City, UT | 801.456.0450
Caputo's Market & Deli | 314 West 300 South, Salt Lake City, UT | 801.531.TONY
Ginza Japanese Cuisine & Sushi Bar | 209 West 200 South, Salt Lake City, UT | 801.322.2224
The Garden at Temple Square | 10th Floor Joseph Smith Memorial Building, 15 East South Temple, Salt Lake City, UT | 801.539.3170

Technorati Tags: Restaurant | Salt Lake City

Opa!

We're on vacation in Salt Lake City and looking for dinner options outside of the standard hotel fare.

I've had a jones for Pastitsio since Becke tempted me with her solution to "Presto Pasta."

The in-room "discover Salt Lake City" magazines indicate that Greek food's a popular local commodity.

We turn to our favorite Web 2.0 solution to the munchies: Open Table.

Open Table introduces us to Aristo.

Before we even got to the menu, we knew we had a hit.

The website greets you:

Ok. Here is the story, it’s pretty simple.

>> Browse our full selection of menus.
>> Make your Reservation online with our new Reservations System.
>> Get driving directions from our Contact Us page.
>> Show up the date of your reservation with an empty stomach.
>> We’ll take care of the rest.

Following instructions, we pull up the menu.

Calamari, check.
Pastitsio, check.
And a selection of gyros.

Sold.

Table for two, 9:00 PM.

And that's what we ordered.

We started with the calamari, which was amazing in its simplicity: tossed in lightly salted flour and flash fried, with a ramekin of marinara for dipping. That's it. Because when you start with the highest quality ingredients and treat them with respect, that's all you need.

John had the gyros with the most amazing "oven roasted potatoes" I've ever encountered. Crispy on the outside. Buttery soft on the inside. And seasoned with a complex blend of herbs and spices that scream GREEK!

I had a Greek salad -- a delightful blend of farm fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, kalamata olives and tangy feta cheese -- followed by the much-anticipated Pastitsio. Oh. My. Gawd. This Greek chef's answer to lasagna combines perfectly seasoned ground beef with tender pasta, smothered lovingly in a creamy cheesy bechamel sauce. It took every ounce of self-restraint I could muster not to lick the plate.

Desserts, we learned, were prepared by the owner's mother from recipes passed down through the generations. Okay, count us in. John chose rice pudding which I can typically take or leave. Unfortunately for him he coerced me into trying it, and I became an instant convert.

We'd been so focused on the food, I'd neglected my camera for almost the entire meal. As I reached for it to photograph the empty plate that carried my baklava, Aristo himself stopped by to introduce himself, clearly pleased that we were delighted with our meal.

Originally from the east coast, Aristo opened his tribute to "the old country" near the University of Utah in 2003 -- and turned it into Salt Lake City Weekly's best Greek Restaurant in a reader poll less than two years later. Why Salt Lake? His family's here. And as his menu illustrates, his heritage and his family's traditions are what matters most.

I think we've found our favorite restaurant in Salt Lake!

Aristo's Greek Restaurant & Cafe
244 South 1300 East, Salt Lake City UT | 801.581.0888

Technorati Tags: Restaurant | Greek | Salt Lake City

Strange Things are Afoot at the Circle K...

Welcome to the latest installment of our epicurean adventures, on location in... BAKERSFIELD!

Technorati Tags: Bakersfield | Restaurants | Cajun | BBQ | Basque

Searching for an old friend...

...we made a new one.

You could say John and I have an obsession with sushi. And you really wouldn't be exaggerating. It's probably the one pilgrimage we make MORE often than Nibblers.

John's fixation started before we met. Mine began early in our relationship with my first visit to Koji's. A four-table hole in the wall off the beaten path on the San Francisco peninsula, Koji's was a true neighborhood find -- and the perfect place to discover a new food addiction.

Over the years we've probably sampled hundreds of sushi bars and found a few favorites along the way. But because John was one of Koji's first customers and Koji was my first real sushi experience, we managed to make our way back to 37th Avenue no matter from wherever we were in the bay.

Since Koji closed his doors in 2004, a dedicated group of his customers have kept in touch and we've followed him around the bay to the very best of our ability. So before he celebrates his first anniversary with Hiro Steak and Sushi in Brentwood we decided to visit and check out his newest digs.

A little Internet research reveals that Hiro's is the brainchild of owner Mark Bradford and executive chef Hiro Ogawa, that it will take us a little longer than an hour to get there, that for a Japanese restaurant the wine list is impressive, and that the descriptions of the menu items have us salivating over the keyboard.

I find the ambiance at Hiro's fascinating. A lot of restaurants try to offer something for everyone -- and lose their own identity in the process. Part piano lounge, part sushi bar, part robata grill, part 5-star restaurant -- Hiros' manages to do it all, and do it well. From our seats at one end of the sushi bar, we're close enough to the lounge to observe the quiet and friendly efficiency of the bar staff and enjoy the young Michael Bolton lookalike and his unique style on the piano before turning our attention to the menu before us.

It's immediately clear that we've missed Koji -- but quickly becomes equally clear that he's made a mark on the menu. Hiro himself offers us an amuse of seared tuna in a creamy wasabi sauce before taking our order. We enjoy ocean-fresh nigiri, a crisp-tender tempura roll (with just a bit too much greenery for John), and a creamy California roll that evoked memories of late nights on 37th Avenue for both of us. One of the most interesting dishes we chose was the edamame -- prepared "three ways" -- some simply sprinkled with salt, some seasoned with garlic, and a third section in an sweet sesame dressing. Fascinating in it's complex simplicity, I'm convinced this preparation would convert many soy-phobes to the other side.


One of the things that turns a good sushi bar experience into a great one for us is our interaction with the sushi chef, our host for the evening. No matter how fresh the fish, the experience lacks luster if we can't find a connection with the chef. Hiro was the consummate host -- attentive and friendly without hovering or 'up-selling.' He let us set the pace, paid attention to our selections and our reaction to his creations, offering an occasional recommendation based on his observations. When John ordered uni to finish, we explained that while I appreciate good uni, I usually find a whole nigiri overwhelmingly rich. In response, Hiro offered me the smallest of spoonfuls to sample.

In the end, John mustered the courage to ask after Koji. Sadly, we managed to visit on the last Friday of Koji's vacation in Japan -- he's scheduled to return on Monday and Hiro promised to tell him we'd stopped in. So we'll need to make the drive out Vasco Road again in February to reconnect with an old friend and a new one.

Hiro's Steak & Sushi - 613 First St., Brentwood - 925.634.3129

Technorati Tags: Restaurants | Sushi | Restaurant Reviews

For the first time

"Minor things can become moments of great revelation when encountered for the first time" -Margot Fonteyn

There's something magical about 'firsts'. First words. First steps. First kisses. First tastes of something brand new.

John and I are ten years and many wonderful memories past our first kiss. And not ready to dive into the commitment required for first words or steps -- except perhaps vicariously through our nieces and nephews. So -- especially given our shared passion for food -- we rarely pass up the opportunity to share a first taste.

Enter Chris. At eighteen, he thinks he might want to be a chef someday. But not a pastry chef because in his estimation pastry chefs don't get women. Okay, so he's got a lot to learn...

But that's another story for another post. A typical teenager, Chris loves meat. But he's cautious about anything he perceives as ethnic food -- Asia and South America reside of different planets in Chris' culinary universe.

John and I are on a mission to change that. And what better way to introduce a teenage carnivore to the many flavors of Asia than a field trip for Korean Barbecue, a cuisine whose cornerstone Ruth Reichl has described as "Bulgoki... the barbecued beef of the Far East"?

So Saturday morning, we loaded up the cars and caravanned south for The Palace Korean Barbecue Buffet in Sunnyvale. On arrival, the hostess surveyed our party for several seconds, clearly not sure what to make of us: Nine Caucasians -- four adults, two teenage boys two giggly adolescent girls and a fifth teenager, quieter and more mature than the others. Clearly not their average Saturday afternoon clientele. As she seated us at two tables toward the back of the restaurant, I suspect she had reservations about leaving the young people alone with open flame. Hmmm. Perhaps before we introduced Chris and Company to the concept of Korean BBQ, we should have reviewed the rules?

In the end, they did just fine. As we were seated and the waitress fired up the tabletop grills, John explained the premise: Three "buffet" lines. One for the raw meat you'd bring back to your table and cook. Sweet & salty bulgogi. Rich & succulent kalbi, or short ribs. Teriyaki chicken. Spicy pork loin. Marinated calamari. For the more adventurous: chicken gizzards, tripe, tongue, pork belly, and baby octopus. A second buffet line for the Korean side dishes (and a couple of buffet-style Banchan) - spicy kimchi, pickled cucumbers, meatballs and the ubiquitous eggrolls among the many selections there. Between these a mountain of clean plates (since you'll want to segregate your raw meat from the side dishes and the cooked meat) and a small salad bar. The kids nodded and off we went.

We returned from the buffet to stake out our real estate on the grills and found the waitress had delivered our beverages and supplied each table with tongs for managing meat on the grill and scissors for cutting your meat bite-sized. Since the kids had opted for their own table, John did double-duty -- eating on the adult side and drifting to the other table to make explanations, answer questions and take pictures. It was rewarding to watch as the teens -- especially the boys -- open their minds to things they'd never experienced before. They loved the cook-your-own aspect and were soon sworn devotees of the kalbi. We'd done it -- Chris was hooked on his first foray into Asian cuisine.

Okay fine, but where's the review? What about the food?

While it's not fine dining, The Palace certainly one of the best buffets in the greater bay area. We don't do buffet-style dining very often. When we do, a key to getting us to return is consistency -- a hallmark at The Palace. For $15.00 (at lunch, slightly higher for dinner), you can expect a clean environment (critical for a buffet), friendly, courteous service and high-quality fresh fare for barbecue. The side dishes are admittedly (but again consistently) mediocre -- but you're not going for the sides. When you DO opt for a salad or a small plate of noodles, you can be assured that while they're not local/organic/sustainable or for the matter much more than iceberg or chow mein -- they've also not been sitting in an ice bath or under a heat lamp for hours... or days. So if you're in Sunnyvale and in the mood for good quality Korean barbecue, be sure to check out The Palace.

The Palace Barbecue Buffet
1092 E. El Camino Real, Sunnyvale |

Other Online Reviews: Life, Love AND Food
Jason & Terry's Bay Area Review
Technorati Tags: Food | Restaurants | Korean Restaurants | Bay Area Restaurants

The Melting Pot (Larkspur)

We've been to La Fondue in Saratoga a couple of times. Once early in our relationship -- an experience with dining companions that we still ponder 11 years later. There's a huge difference between commenting that the chocolate course demands licking the bowl and actually picking it up and using one's beard as a brillo pad. I will never forget the look on our waiter's face.

We've also journeyed to the much lower key Fondue Fred -- with the aforementioned dining companion and a pack of his Star Trek loving friends. We enjoyed the cheese and the chocolate, and ignored the freaks speaking in Klingon.

So when a summertime visit to friends in Marin left us with an open evening and a recently opened Melting Pot in Larkspur, we were eager to check it out. Even with the caveat that it would cost us $30-40 each. Frankly, we figured that was a bargain in Marin County.

We chose the Pacific Rim three course fondue dinner -- traditional Swiss cheese fondue, a salad course, and Asian-inspired dippers like teriyaki sirloin, duck breast, chicken breast, shrimp and the somewhat strange potstickers, cooked tableside in a bouillon broth.

Despite the Emeril-sized dollop of garlic our waitress enthusiastically added to the pot, the cheese course was delightful -- buttery, creamy, slightly sweet, utterly decadent.

I selected the seasonal strawberry salad and was quite pleased. For the product of a chain restaurant whose specialty is NOT fresh produce it was excellent. John went with the mushroom salad and was far less enthralled with the button mushrooms tossed with iceburg lettuce in a standard Italian vinaigrette. But we didn't come for the salad.

The main course was little more than adequate. The dipping selections were plentiful -- but not terribly interesting. The dipping SAUCES -- specifically a green goddess dressing that was recommended paired with the veggies -- were the highlight of this course.

None of the chocolate courses on the menu spoke to us -- we're generally of the less-is-more and premium-is-ideal school of chocolates so "Chocolate S'mores" and "Cookies & Cream - Marshmallow Dream" sounded like a bit of overkill. In the end we opted for a simple dark chocolate with a shot of Grand Marnier for a hint of orange flavor. They went a little nuts with the dippers here - the fresh fruit was lovely, but marshmallows? They're clearly aiming at a family audience, providing something for every palate.

One final commemnt -- given that this is a chain establishement aiming at a mainstream middle-American family demographic, the menu is a little -- schizophrenic. We've done the fondue thing before and we found the menu confusing -- we'd have been completely lost as beginners. Fortunately, the waitstaff is friendly and well-versed in how it all fits together. But a newbie diner with a newbie waiter might find the experience a bit overwhelming.

In the end, if you're in the bay area looking for a romantic fondue experience, plan ahead and make a reservation for two at La Fondue in Saratoga. If you're in a larger group and looking for a budget cheese-and-chocolate experience, take BART to Fondue Fred. Save Melting Pot (additional establishements opening soon in Pleasanton, San Mateo & Walnut Creek) for smaller groups looking to explore traditional and non-traditional fondue in a relaxed, family-style atmosphere.

Technorati Tags: Food | Restaurants | Restaurant Review | Dining Out | National Blog Posting Month 2006

San Francisco, here he comes... Va Di Vi (Walnut Creek)

Kelly Degala.

A genius with seafood on a small plate.

The first man in whom I had no romantic interest who managed to convince me to try a dish outside my comfort zone.

A down-to-earth "celebrity" chef we're proud to call a friend.

Look out, San Francisco, here he comes!


Va de Vi
1511 Mt. Diablo Blvd.
Walnut Creek, CA 94596
925-979-0100

Technorati Tags: Restaurants | Restaurant Reviews | Dining Out | National Blog Posting Month 2006

Dim Sum means one of each - Loon Wah (San Jose)

One of the things I'm really enjoying about NaBloPoMo is the opportunity to revisit restaurants we visited and dishes we prepared at home, the corresponding photographs on my hard drive -- and finish the partially written posts about them.

Restaurants like Loon Wah - almost an accidental discovery. Driving through San Jose on a mid-summer Sunday between social events, we both had a serious jones for dim sum. Loon Wah had been on our "to try" list for several months, making it the obvious choice.

There's one challenge with dim sum. When John and I are ravenous (which we were) we tend to go overboard and order way too much food (which we did). Chow Mein noodles. Barbequed Pork Buns. Sui Mai. Potstickers. We pretty much eyeballed the menu and said "yes." Which resulted in a large-ish collection of takeout containers.

Our impression of the food? Good, solid basic dim sum. Some of it a little greasy. but all of it tasty. In larger than average portions. At reasonable prices. Loon Wah's strength is in their "pastry" -- the pork buns, rice noodles and custard buns are consistently quite good. Potstickers are the only dish we ordered that need som fine-tuning; they were a bitl rubbery and the filling had an odd chemical taste. In short we wouldn't traverse the bay for a meal at Loon Wah, but when in the neighborhood, we wouldn't hesitate to stop in. We have -- twice -- since our initial visit.

Loon Wah
1146 S De Anza Blvd., San Jose, CA 95129
408.257.8877

Technorati Tags: Food | Restaurant | Chinese Restaurant | Restaurant Review | Chinese Food | National Blog Posting Month 2006

Move over Michelin - Campo di Bocce (Livermore)

When friends invited us to join them for dinner at Campo di Bocce in Livermore we accepted, but without our usual enthusiasm for trying out a 'new' restaurant. I'm typically hyper-critical of Italian restaurants -- they have to be *really* good to get my attention and merit a return visit.

Piatti's done it.
Capellini has done it.
Vivace's done it.
Campo di Bocce's Los Gatos location hasn't even come close, so I wasn't optimistic about their new venture in Livermore.

John plays in a league, so we're at Campo - Los Gatos once a week. We usually make alternate arrangements for dinner. We dine at Campo just often enough to remind ourselves not to. Come on people. It really doesn't get any easier than Italian food. Our chief complaint is over consistency. When the kitchen staff is having a good night what emerges from its confines won't win any awards, but it's edible and not terribly unpleasant. When it's a not-so-good night, all bets are off. So asking for a menu is like flipping a coin -- you're never quite sure what you're going to get. Service is equally spotty -- it can range anywhere from pleasant to surly to non-existent.

We knew that the management planned to hire a "real" chef for the Livermore facility, and a tour during construction mid-summer included a menu preview that had us intrigued. But experience indicated that at least in terms of food, Campo scores much higher at creativity than execution. With that in mind, when our friends suggested Campo Livermore for dinner I was curious but not particularly optimistic.

As I scanned the specials board on the way to our table, I reevaluated:

Special Salad of the Day: Mixed Greens with Hearts of Palm and Seared Scallops in a Vanilla Vinaigrette. Hmmm.

Soup of the Day: Roasted Winter Squash Bisque. Hmmmmm.

Dessert of the Day: White Chocolate Hazelnut Ravioli. Okay, now you've got my undivided attention.

A quick segue... I'm notoriously bad at deciding what I want to order -- I can linger over a menu for a good twenty minutes narrowing down my selections. But the menu at Campo provided no temptation; I was having a cup of the soup with the salad, thankyouverymuch. John ordered one of the pasta dishes. Our dining companions chose spinach canelloni and the grilled salmon in a pesto crust. And an order of calamari for the table.

First pleasant surprise: the service was professional, courteous and efficient. Followed quickly by the second pleasant surprise: the calamari didn't suck. It wasn't the best calamari I've ever had -- I prefer a paper-thin crust -- but it was well seasoned and cooked perfectly, with none of the rubbery texture that's the hallmark of the sister restaurant. The soup arrived in short order and continued the kitchen staff's winning streak -- it was rich and creamy but not heavy, seasoned perfectly, a near-perfect accompaniment to a blustery fall evening.

But the salad -- the salad had my inner Bruno screaming ten! Ten! TEN! The scallops were seared on the outside, rare on the inside. There were six of them -- certainly adequate for an entree salad. Interspersed among equally generous portions of lightly marinated hearts of palm, artichoke hearts, red onions, red bell peppers, over a bed of crisp romaine. Dressed liberally but not sodden with the single best vinaigrette I've ever experienced. Vanilla. Vinegar. And they worked together. Beautifully. Brilliantly. The salad sold me. The salad brought me back for more...

You got it, a return visit. The very next night. To watch the North American Bocce Championships yes, but also to get another taste of Chef Tony Murray's genius. This time we dined on the patio. We started with the artichoke stuffed with Italian Sausage and dressed with aged balsamic vinegar. Seven, in my best Bruno voice (but then I'm not an Italian sausage fan). Again in a departure from the standard set in Los Gatos, the salad of the day is in fact a salad of the DAY -- not just a different fish slapped on top of mixed greens with gorgonzola and Italian dressing. So I didn't get another shot at vanilla goodness. Thursday's salad was grilled swordfish over romaine, surprisingly sweet tomatoes, hearts of palm in a hearty Italian vinaigrette. Not over the top like the scallop salad, but still a solid 9. For dessert we indulged in the white chocolate ravioli: three mounds of hazelnut ganache enrobed in white chocolate and drizzled with raspberry red sauce.

Okay, so it's not exactly a Michelin star, but with two visits in as many days, Campo Livermore joins some amazing bay area establishments on my list of must-try (and often repeat) Italian restaurants. And I haven't ventured far off the salad menu yet. So if you're touring "the East Bay’s very own wine country," and find yourself hungry with some time to kill, go. Check it out.

Campo di Bocce - Two Northern California Locations
565 University Avenue - Los Gatos, CA 95030 - 408.395.7650
175 East Vineyard Avenue - Livermore, CA 94550 - 925.249.9800

Technorati Tags: Restaurants | Italian | Restaurant Reviews

Made it through the wilderness...

Somehow I made it through
Didn't know how lost I was
until I found you...

First there was a mid summer frozen-food tribute to urban lyricist Robert Van Winkle. Now it's an evening out on the town, ala the Queen of Pop. Delicious Sarah's 80's themed events call to my inner angst-ridden teenager. Or maybe it's that this event was announced on the eve of my high school reunion, when I've completely time-warped back to the sockless Sperry Topsider, white Ray-Ban era of 1986.

But when Sarah announced the theme for Dine & Dish 7 - Like a Virgin (hey!), I didn't hesitate for a moment. I knew exactly where I was going. A new (to the Bay Area) restaurant: The Counter in Palo Alto.

I was beat, incomplete
I'd been had, I was sad and blue
But you made me feel
Yeah, you made me feel
Shiny and new...

I knew The Counter was coming to the Bay Area. That this is the first of twenty-something sister locations "coming soon" to communities across the country. I'd read several articles in a varied assortment of publications assuring me they produced some of the best burgers in the country. Other bay area bloggers made the pilgrimage in August and September. While I knew Tim's approach wasn't for me, each account moved the restaurant up a notch or two on my "must try" list. When Sarah announced Dine & Dish, my eighteen year old burger-loving self met my thirty-eight year old foodie self and there was no question, it was time for a virginal visit to The Counter.

Gonna give you all my love, boy
My fear is fading fast
Been saving it all for you
cause only love can last...

If you've followed the links, you understand the drill: You walk into the industrial soda fountain (think Chipotle meets Fentons/Swensons and kicks it up a couple of notches) and grab a clipboard with a menu. Choose your burger (beef, turkey, grilled chicken or veggie), the delivery mechanism (bun or bowl of greens) and various toppings from a wide array of options while you wait to be seated. The place was surprisingly crowded for an hour before closing on a Sunday night, so we opted for two seats at... drumroll please... The Counter rather than waiting for a table.

We skipped the shakes (though they looked deliciously authentic) and dove into the heart of the menu. We both opted for "in a bowl", but from there our burgers diverged. I selected a third of a pound with Tilamook cheddar, grilled onions, tomato, avocado and sauteed mushrooms with horseradish mayo -- and was relieved when Frankie didn't flinch when I requested that my hormone and antibiotic-free burger be prepared medium rare. John went for the 2/3 pound burger with an assortment of toppings and the spicy peanut sauce. And we split a basket of sweet-salty sweet potato fries.

As we waited for our dinner I expressed regret that my photography skills don't warrant a more sophisticated camera. Our prime seats at the counter gave us a great view of the action in the kitchen, but I knew my point-and-shoot digital couldn't capture the activity or the precision of the process.

The burgers arrived promptly and we wasted no time digging in. I was pleasantly surprised by the quantity and the freshness of the bed of greens below my burger. No shredded, watered down iceberg here -- this was two generous cups of fresh, crispy-tangy micro-greens. The toppings were generous without being outrageously out of proportion, and the sauce was served on the side so I could regulate its distribution. Curious about the beef with peanut sauce choice, I tasted John's burger. It was odd -- peanut sauce is a chicken thing for me -- but it certainly didn't suck.

While we didn't indulge, I should mention here that The Counter offers a surprisingly extensive wine and micro-brew list for what's effectively a burger joint. And what appeared to be a full bar.

When we finished our dinner, Frankie eagerly offered us a dessert menu. While the concept of a "chocolate burger" (a donut filled with chocolate mousse) fascinated us, we'd budgeted neither the time nor the calories to indulge.

Next time. Because I'm quite sure there will be a next time. Several next times. It's the answer to my occasional need for all-American comfort food, but something "more interesting" than "just a burger". I think Carter of Food Notebook expressed it perfectly: The Counter's focus on doing one thing -- and doing it *really well* -- will be their ticket to success, in the bay area and around the country. If you get the opportunity, by all means, check it out.

The Counter - Two California Locations:
2901 Ocean Park Blvd - Santa Monica, CA 90405 - 310.399.8383
369 California Avenue - Palo Alto, CA 94306 - 650.321.3900

Technorati Tags: Restaurants | Reviews | Burgers | Food Blog Events | Dine & Dish | SF Bay Area

Creatures of habit - Trattoria Pasta Grotto (Foster City)

Every time we venture across the bridge to Pasta Grotto, I vow to try something new.

I rarely choose Italian out (it's easy and cheap to make at home) -- yet almost everything on Alex's menu intrigues me. It's a small, hole-in-the-wall strip-mall restaurant. It's typically Alex (the owner) and a couple of guys in the kitchen. One time we ordered the fondue, and Alex darted out to a nearby grocery store for a missing ingredient. It's cloth tablecloths and a faux fireplace in the corner. It's simple and a bit kitchy -- but only a bit. Mostly, it's homey.

This visit would have been the perfect opportunity to venture out of my comfort zone. I were both torn between "the standard" and the daily specials. Fresh salmon ravioli in a light dill cream sauce. Grilled fresh salmon fillets over garlic roasted mashed potatoes with a red onion marmalade.

But in the end I again opted for the familiar.

Rosti Abbondanza. two crispy-tender potato pancakes topped with fresh diced tomatoes. Sweet purple onions, Just-the-right-amount of shredded romaine. Buttery avocado. Sliced grilled chicken breast, still warm from the oven. Topped with melted cheese and a creamy-tart house dressing.

A delightful combination of the best of Swiss and Italian Cuisine.

On a warm summer evening as the sun sets over the bay, it just doesn't get any better than that.


Tratorria Pasta Grotto
1058 Shell Blvd, Foster City
650.571.0507

Technorati Tags: Food | Restaurants | Reviews | Italian Food | Bay Area

Happiness is a happy hound! (Happy Hound, Los Gatos)

“Some people wanted champagne and caviar when they should have had beer and hot dogs.”
(Dwight D. Eisenhower, 1890-1969)

On our way out of town to celebrate July 4 with some friends, a hot dog and a soda was just what we needed to stave off hunger for the drive ahead. Not a lemon-chicken sauage or a quarter pound of tofu molded in sausage shape. A real, honest, all-American all-beef hot dog.

Fortunately, there's the Happy Hound. Family-owned and operated since the 1970's, the small building stands out like a red-headed step-sibbling next to it's glitzy modern fast-food neighbors on busy Los Gatos Blvd. But the line of two dozen people stretching out the door and into the parking lot suggests the folks at the Hound are onto something.

Nine inches of all beef hot dog. Stuffed into a steamed bun with sliced tomatoes & onions and a heatly squirt of mustard. Topped liberally with shredded cheddar cheese. Who needs caviar?

Happy Hound Old Fashioned Hot Dogs and Hamburgers
15899 Los Gatos Blvd., Los Gatos
408.358.2444

Technorati Tags: Dining Out | Restaurant Reviews | Restaurants | Fast Food